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The Injection Connection

In 1971, Tom Stotts bought a ’57 Chevy two-door post car...

It had a four-barrel 283 and a three speed, so he loved it…But over the years Stotts modified the ’57 again and again, taking advantage of newer Chevy technology. Multiple 283s, 327s and 350s have powered the car and been backed up with three-speeds, four-speeds and automatics, with rear gears ranging from 3.08 to 5.38.

In 1999, he decided to replace the carbureted 350, which was installed in 1991, with a Corvette TPI motor. Stotts wanted to bring the car into the new millennium with style, adding the extra convenience of electronic fuel injection. A resident of Mena, Arkansas, Stotts visited nearby Street & Performance to get started on his project. The S&P guys are well-known for being wizards when it comes to figuring out how to stuff an EFI motor in an older car and actually making it work. 

When Stotts was there, he spotted an LT1 motor sitting on a stand and instantly forgot all about his plans for the TPI. This motor came new from the factory with 275 hp, and the aftermarket has now embraced it the same way it had embraced the first-generation small block. 

 

Here’s the Chevy as it rolled in for the swap. It has a built 350 that performed well, but there can’t really be much doubt that the LT1 is a better motor and will make the Chevy much easier to live with.

Although it has been overshadowed by the newer LS1 and LS6, the LT1 is still a great motor. It’s capable of well over 300 hp with basic bolt-ons, and in modified form the motor made 330 hp as the factory LT4 fitted to the ’96 Grand Sport Corvette. The LT1 itself saw duty in the Corvette, Camaro, Firebird, Impala, Buick Roadmaster, Caprice police cars and even Cadillac limousines. Finding a donor LT1 for your next project won’t be difficult if that’s what you decide you want to do.

Stotts had to have an LT1 in his car, but his budget made a new GM crate motor out of the question. However, he went to the right shop. S&P president Mark Campbell was able to find Stotts a low-mileage LT1 and a matching 4L60E automatic transmission. The car, motor and trans 

Removing the hood made the swap much simpler—and why risk scratches? Don’t forget to mark the positions of your bolts before removal, so you can get the proper alignment when it’s time to put the hood back on.

went to Hot Rod Assembly Line for the swap. As with most late-model engine swaps, though, it wasn’t as easy as just bolting the new motor down into the mounts and turning the key. The conversion from carburetion to fuel injection required a long list of changes, and the fact that 

the LT1 changed slightly from year to year and by application means you must know what you have, as well as need, in order to make it work. But when it comes to these swaps, Street & Performance might be the best friend you have, especially because its crew is so willing to share what it has learned.

Pulling out the radiator takes some time, but it will save you much more.
Hot Rod Assembly Line removed the radiator, housing and all of the support framework.
With the hood and radiator gone, you can see how easy it will be to remove the old 350.
Notice how the entire motor and transmission can come out as one package, with the distributor, manifolds and accessory drive all in place.
Not only will the old motor mounts interfere with the LT1 power-steering pump, side mounts will help reduce engine vibration. These old mounts are gone.
Street & Performance’s side-mount motor kit requires no welding. Just put them in place on the crossmember, drill your holes and tap them.
Now you can bolt in your motor mounts.
This ’57 is getting a new steering box, so the original was removed.
The new steering box is a Mullins 605 unit, which should bolt in and attach to the steering column pretty easily.
This is the time to prepare your LT1 for installation, if you haven’t done so already. If you have a Corvette engine, you’ll need to change the oil pan to an F-body pan in order to clear the crossmember. Pans from the F-body, Impala, Cadillac and Buick applications will all fit the ’57 with no problems.
Most LT1s feature an oil cooler because the confined engine bays of Corvettes, et al. trap so much heat. That won’t be a problem in the ’57, so the oil cooler was removed.
Here the builders bolt on the 4L60E transmission. Be aware that ’92-’93 Corvettes and ’93 F-bodies used a non-electric overdrive, so don’t get a transmission and computer that are incompatible with one another. This motor and trans are from a ’95, so the overdrive is electric and the computer was selected accordingly.
As the engine was installed, it was obvious the factory accessory brackets wouldn’t fit in the ’57, so on went an S&P kit that relocated the alternator, A/C pump and power-steering pump. This shot shows the wide, Corvette-style brackets, which fit only because the battery has been moved to the trunk. Otherwise, street-rod-style brackets would be necessary.
With the motor in place, the rest of the mounts could be installed. 16 The LT1 is now bolted in place, which means that the next step is to build a new crossmember for the transmission.
Hot Rod Assembly Line fabricated the new rear suspension crossmember, welded it in place and bolted down the transmission. The plan is to use Dakota Digital gauges, which will be connected to an S&P wiring harness.
The motor and transmission are securely in place, so the rest of the installation may now be completed. These headers are Street & Performance’s Pro-Car ceramic-coated headers for ’55-’57 Chevys. They come with one O2 sensor bung per side, as the LT1 requires.
To make the installation as clean as possible, Tube Tech modified the fuel rails to exit low at the rear of the passenger side. Corvette fuel rails already exit on the passenger side, while all others use a driver’s-side exit.
Once the fuel rails were installed, an S&P chrome cover plate went on top of them. Note too the matching S&P valve covers.
The brackets that hold down the rear exit fuel rails go in next.
Chevy built these cars so that the radiators for six- and eight-cylinder cars mounted in different locations. This radiator was built to fit in the eight-cylinder location, but it needed to move forward to provide extra room for the new motor. Hot Rod Assembly Line built new brackets to mount the radiator in the six-cylinder location.
This extra space means that mounting the dual electric fans isn’t a problem.
The builders mounted the radiator overflow on the passenger side of the radiator, next to the S&P polished dryer and bracket for A/C. The power-steering fluid reservoir is on the driver’s side of the radiator.
S&P can help you with what you need for your power steering setup, too. This car uses Aeroquip hose and S&P separators. Be sure to use a No. 6 hose from the pump to the box and from the box to the reservoir. Use at least a No. 8 AN hose rated for 20 to 27 inches of vacuum from the reservoir back to the pump.
Installation of this stainless steel fuel tank from Rock Valley had several advantages, the most important of which is its internal high-pressure fuel pump. The location is also efficient because electric pumps push fuel better than they pull it, and this location will also cut down on pump noise.
Tube Tech supplied new, hard, stainless fuel lines for the Chevy, which are much safer and more dependable than rubber.
Compare Street & Performance’s streamlined wiring harness with the snarled, messy factory arrangement. S&P cuts out what you don’t need to make installation much easier.
Make sure to pick up a pre-’96 computer to avoid OBD-II diagnostics.
The wiring harness plugs into the engine. With S&P’s harness, you may use speed density calibration rather than mass airflow sampling.
Lokar sells oil and trans dipsticks that fit this application and look great.
Another angle

Article Sources


Street & Performance

479/394-5711

1 Hot Rod Ln. Mena, AR 71953

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