Installing a Maximum Motorsports Torque Arm Suspension
The “before” shot illustrates a pretty typical-looking suspension, with the exception of the Brembo Cobra R brakes.
Maximum’s design replaces the upper control arms with a torque arm and a Panhard rod, each of which has only one job rather than two. The Panhard rod centers the axle from side to side, and the torque arm controls pinion angle. Assigning each of these duties to separate components allows each piece to be better at its one job than the stock upper control arms are at either job. The torque arm is essentially a three-link design, and Maximum claims that it improves traction so much that after installation you may have to alter your sway bars to prevent understeer.
Disconnect the sway bar end link.
Unbolt and remove the brake caliper and rotor.
Before you remove the strut, support the suspension with a floor jack.
Lower the jack and pull the front spring free.
Two different torque arm designs are available, standard and heavy duty, depending on your rearend ratio and your engine’s torque production. The kits fit all ’79-’98 Mustangs and the ’99-’03 GT. If you choose to add MM’s coilover shocks and struts, MM’s website even helps you choose which springs to pick based on your current spring rates.
Use the appropriate tool to separate the tie-rod end from the spindle.
To make the most of the new suspension, the owner took his car to Chicane Sport Tuning (310/782-0063), where he also had installed Maximum’s adjustable rear sway bar and coilover shocks and struts. The front control arms even got Global West Del-A-Lum bushings and an MM bumpsteer kit. In about a day, Chicane transformed the car from stock to a potent street machine that’s ideally suited for weekend open-track events, too.
Installation will be much easier if you remove the exhaust system before beginning the project. Also, before you can attempt to install the torque arm, you’ll need to add subframe connectors to your car. Chicane prefers to use Global West connectors, but the choice is up to you. A table on the MM website will tell you the specifics on what you should look for in a set of subframe connectors if you plan to install this suspension.
Unbolt the lower control arm from the K-member.
With the control arms removed, disconnect the spindle from the lower control arm.
To remove the original bushings, you’ll probably need to place the arm in a vise and then use an air chisel.
Although it’s possible to use a hydraulic press to install Del-A-Lum bushings, that process isn’t ideal. The design of the control arm naturally resists the process (picture the C-shaped arm clamping closed as the bushing is pressed in), and it can deeply score the aluminum sleeve, too. A better alternative is to remove the delrin insert and then freeze the aluminum sleeve.
Next, heat the control arm with a torch (you need to get it pretty hot, so a torch is likely your only option).
Place the frozen bushing sleeve inside the heated control arm. The sleeve will have shrunk while the control arm expanded, but the two will equalize temperature quickly when they contact one another. This picture should give you some idea of how hot the control arm will be, so wear thick gloves.
Try to index the sleeve so that the grease fitting will be easily serviceable while on the car.
Let the arms cool and then insert the bushings back into their sleeves.
Reinstall the control arm and bolt it down.
Reinstall the spindle.
Here’s a look at the Maximum Motorsports coilover assembly. It looks better than stock, weighs less and will aid in handling considerably.
Bolt the coilover assembly to the spindle.
Reinstall the sway bar end link.
During the install, Chicane also installed an MM bumpsteer kit. This comparison of the stock unit and the new tie-rod end shows the key differences between the two.
Removing the stock tie-rod end and installing the MM piece is straightforward. Back off the jam nut, remove the stocker and put the new piece on before tightening the jam nut.
Be sure the jam nut on the MM tie-rod end itself is tight and connect it to the spindle
Bolt the coilover to the upper strut mount.
Finally, bolt the sway bar and end link back together.
The front end is now complete.
Here’s a glimpse at one side of the rearend before installation of the new Maximum Motorsports suspension.
Begin by disconnecting the parking brake cables at the caliper.
Remove the 10-lb weight from underneath the rear axle. We’re kidding—it’s actually for vibration reduction, but we were glad to see it go.
Remove the brake calipers, followed by the rotors. You can still leave the hoses connected, though.
Disconnect the quad shocks and throw them in the trash.
Unbolt the shock from its upper mount and let the suspension go to full extension. Remove the coil springs.
Now remove the shock entirely.
The MM torque arm kit includes new lower rear control arms. Support the axle on a set of jackstands and then remove the two bolts that secure the original arms. Then remove the stock arms from the car.
Install the Panhard bar axle mount to the driver’s-side control arm mount on the axle.
On the passenger side, remove the factory lower shock mount and replace it with this new mount (this is only necessary if you’re installing coilovers).
The MM rear arms bolt in just like the originals.
Before you can install the rest of the new suspension, put the wheels back on the car. Raise the jackstands until you like the fit between the tire and the wheel arch. Measure the distance and save it for determining ride height later.
To install the Panhard bar mount to the subframe, you’ll need to hang a plumb bob off the rear edge of the axle and take some measurements. We’ll defer to the instructions on how and where to measure, but you can read the instructions for yourself at MM’s website.
The measurements you just took will allow you to locate the two holes you’ll need to drill into the outside of the framerails. Once you’re positive you’ve marked their position correctly, drill them to 5/8 inch.
This piece will run through from one side of the framerail to the other. However, it’s made too long, so you’ll need to cut it. To find the right length, insert a screwdriver into the holes you just drilled, mark the depth and then transfer that measurement onto each tube.
Use a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and cut each tube to length.
Now clamp the insert in place and drill through the inside framerail with a 3/8-inch bit, using the tubes as guides.
Repeat the operation for the other side of the frame and then bolt in the Panhard rod mount.
Four U-bolts hold the torque arm to the rear axle. Install them now, but don’t tighten them all the way.
The torque arm also bolts to the flanges at the front of the rearend center section. You’ll need to drill out the holes.
Prepare the pivot bolt assembly for the front of the torque arm as seen here. The aluminum spacer goes behind the bushing. Don’t forget to grease the bushing, too.
Install the bushing on the tip of the torque arm.
Use a rubber mallet to seat the torque arm crossmember on the pivot bolt assembly. The edge of the receiver tube should align with the edge of the urethane bushing.
Assemble the Panhard bar and bolt it to the frame and to the axle. Leave it loose so you can adjust it later; it should be as level as possible with the ground, and MM recommends adjusting it with the driver and at least half a tank of fuel in the car.
Support the front of the torque arm and crossmember with a jackstand, then measure and make sure it’s absolutely centered. Rather than using the included crossmember-to-subframe mounts, Chicane prefers to use mounts of its own design for use with the GW subframe connectors. Here, Chicane’s Joe Gosinski marks the spot where he’ll drill the mounts to bolt up to the crossmember.
Drill a hole in the center of your mark. Notice that Gosinski marked the location of each mount to make sure everything will line up correctly.
Here’s how it should look before you begin to weld.
Remove the upper control arms. You won’t reuse them.
The owner of this Mustang also decided to add an MM adjustable rear sway bar. Assemble each side of the bar as seen here, and make sure to grease the bushings and that each of the aluminum mounts faces the same direction.
It’s a good idea to install both sway bar arms off the car and on a level surface, because both have to be aligned with one another. If one’s off even by one spline, it can affect your handling.
Install this flat piece and the upper sway bar mount beginning on the second hole from the end. You’ll eventually replace this flat piece with an end link—this is just to help secure the new sway bar mount to the car.
Another four U-bolts hold the sway bar to the rear axle. Take measurements, center the sway bar and bolt it down
Now swing the bar so that the sway bar-to-frame mounts contact the frame. Clamp and weld each in place.
Here’s what it looks like when you finish. Before you go out and have fun, just remember to fine-tune your settings and tighten any bolts you left loose earlier.
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