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Two-Day Trunk

How to Have a New-Looking Trunk in One Weekend

Trunk detailing is one of the easiest and most rewarding car projects you can do in a weekend. You will need to do some advance planning and have a few tasks completed before Saturday arrives in order to pull it off in two days, but that should be easy enough.

This Chevy’s trunk has really seen better days. In just a weekend, you can have a trunk that looks as good as new.
Until you see the completed trunk next to the un-restored trunk, you really don’t realize how bad it looked before. Yikes!

First, a checklist is in order. Let’s start with the chemicals that you’ll need. We called The Eastwood Company for trunk paint and clear sealer because we saw what a good job it did on a friend’s trunk. Unfortunately, we didn’t order enough. We thought three spray cans of gray/white trunk paint and two spray cans of clear would be enough, but we wound up buying three cans of another brand from Pep Boys, and another three cans (a third brand) at Kragen, after wiping out Pep Boys’ stock. Luckily, they were all very close in composition and color, and you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference between any of them, particularly after the clear was applied. Two spray cans of clear sealer turned out to be more than enough.

Eastwood Original Spatter-Color Trunk Paint is one of the best quality trunk paints on the market. To correctly use trunk paint, primer must be applied to any bare metal areas and it must be sealed with Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss.

So, make that nine spray cans of trunk paint and two cans of clear if you have a full-sized Chevy (it could take seven or eight cans for a mid-size car, or you’ll be driving to the parts store in the middle of the job like we did). Next, a tube of auto body seam sealer is a must if the seam sealer in your trunk isn’t perfect enough to repaint. Ours was non-existent in places, so we went to our local auto body supply store and bought a tube of 3M Ultrapro Sealant, which is made specifically for sealing body seams. We also grabbed a few disposable brushes and a gallon of acetone and were on our way. 

We already had masking tape and newspapers for masking, but don’t forget to add them to your list if you need them. While we had The Eastwood Company on the phone, we also ordered its “Pre” cleaner to test it against good old acetone for cleaning the trunk surfaces prior to painting. We found that it did work better. We also tried a spray can of Eastwood Company’s Rust Encapsulator, since there were many areas of our trunk with surface rust that had to be “killed.” 

Other chemicals we used for our two-day trunk detail included The Eastwood Company’s Rust Encapsulator and “Pre” cleaner, acetone, 3M Ultrapro Sealant for resealing body seams, some brushes for sealant application, a caulking gun and a roll of 3M professional-grade masking tape.

Finally, we bought a can of Eastwood Self-Etching Primer, mainly for our jack parts that will be glass-beaded back to bare metal, but also as a primer for the trunk where we ground it to bare metal. Spray cans of Universal Black and Aluminum engine paints rounded out our list. We prefer engine paint because it seems to do a better job and may have more solids for higher heat resistance. You be the judge.

Okay, now that you have your shopping list for chemicals, it’s time to order a few parts that you may need to complete your trunk redoux. Since our test car had no jack, we picked up a correct used jack from Phil Reed’s Classic Motor Company. Reed is a great guy and extremely knowledgeable about Chevrolets. He has vast resources for finding new and used parts, and he can usually come up with whatever you need in a very timely manner, if he doesn’t already have it in stock. We also ordered our reproduction trunk mats, spare tire hold-down hardware and jacking instructions from Reed. Needless to say, this is a lot of parts that need to be on hand before you even start, so get on the horn and start ordering.

With the amount of paint and chemicals you’ll be spraying, a quality mask is an absolute must. This 3M mask even has replaceable pre-filters and was only about 20 bucks at the local auto body supply store.

Next, you’ll need to clean your jack and its accompanying parts. Our jack wasn’t greasy, it was just dusty and rusty from sitting around for years, so we took the parts to a friend’s shop to glass-bead them. Half an hour later, all of the parts were down to bare metal. This particular jack was really rusty in areas and had some serious pitting. It will never be perfect, but early jacks aren’t exactly growing on trees. Since it’s all we have, we’re going to make it the best it can be and keep a lookout for a better one at the swap meets. Of course, it could be that we’re jaded Californians who don’t have to deal with much rust, but that’s another story.

Finally, there’s a possibility that our spare tire is the original that came with the car, and since it’s in presentable condition, we’re not going to mess with it or its original painted steel wheel. We simply cleaned them both and we’ll put the spare right back in the trunk. If yours is ugly, that’s one more step you’ll have to take care of, so plan for it now.

And here’s how to do it. Now, we’ll be expecting to see a whole lot of fresh trunks at the shows in the next few months, so get on it. 

We got to the center portion of this trunk floor just in time. It would only be a matter of time before the surface rust became little holes in the trunk floor. We wire-wheeled this part of the trunk floor to bare metal for an application of self-etching primer.
This trunk was really getting bad. There was serious surface rust in many places. All of it required scraping, wire brushing and machine wire wheeling, which took hours.
Some previous owner spilled house paint in several places in the trunk. It was really tough to scrape it all off.
We enlisted the help of Miles Wright to do the hard work. Here, Wright grinds surface rust off one of the many rusty areas in the trunk, while we stood around the camera tripod and drank coffee. Nice work if you can get it.
You’ll probably vacuum the trunk six times during the course of the weekend, so keep your vacuum cleaner close by to suck up the sanding dust and residue.
Just when we thought we were finished grinding, scraping and wire brushing, we found more rust under the tops of the quarter panels.
“Pre” spray cleaner from Eastwood worked great. It cleaned without lifting the old trunk paint, as acetone tends to do if you don’t wipe it off fast enough. “Pre” also removes dirt, wax, grease, oil and silicones.
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator has been tested and proven to be superior for rust prevention and overall durability. This is an extra step that you might want to take if you plan to keep the car for more than a few years and you only want to do this once
Eastwood Self-Etching Primer etches and primes bare, rust-free metal in one step. It bonds better than most primers, making it perfect to protect and prime the bare metal spots in your freshly prepared trunk floor.
3M Ultrapro Sealant is a perfect sealer for resealing body seams. It really works.
If you use a cheap, hard-bristled brush to spread 3M Ultrapro Sealant and study the application of the factory seam sealer, you can get pretty close to a factory-looking appearance after a little practice.
Shown is our multi-color trunk, awaiting the application of the gray/white trunk paint and clear sealer.
We noticed a small amount of rust coming through the thick factory undercoating on the sides of the trunk (inside the quarter panels). Short of stripping off all of the undercoating, killing the underlying rust and re-undercoating the panels, about all you can do is apply some metallic paint over the undercoating before applying the trunk paint. It does a pretty good job at holding back the rust from showing through the trunk paint.
Inside, the quarter panel looks great after the application of trunk paint and there is no rust showing through. Nice trick. Note that if we didn’t apply the metallic paint, the rust would probably show through again in a few short hours.

Quick Jack Resto

 

 

Our new (okay, old) jack setup was looking pretty tired, dirty and rusty. It was in need of a redo.  

We used Eastwood Self-Etching Primer and Universal Black and Aluminum engine paints on our jack. The results were excellent.  Fortunately, Phil Reed’s Classic Motor Company had a quality, reproduction trunk mat set, spare tire hold-down hardware set, and jacking instructions in stock for immediate delivery. 

 

 

The repro trunk mat set comes rolled in a small carton, which tends to roll up the edges. Lay the pieces out in your driveway for a few minutes in the sunshine and they once again lay down flat. 

 

 

Shown is our jack after about half an hour spent cleaning the parts in the glass bead blaster.

Article Sources


The Eastwood Company

800/343-9353

263 Shoemaker Rd. Pottstown, PA 19464

Phil Reed’s Classic Motor Company

816/587-1109

10520 River Rd. Kansas City, MO 64152

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